In the bustling culinary landscape of Cape Town, Chef Vusi Ndlovu is set to unleash a gastronomic firestorm with his latest creation, MLILO ‘Fires of Africa,’ exclusively tailored for Time Out Market Cape Town. With each dish, this concept pays homage to the rich culinary traditions of Africa, serving as a vibrant testament to Chef Vusi’s exceptional creativity and culinary innovation.
Here, we take a look at his culinary journey and the concept that celebrates ‘shisanyama,’ easily translated into a braai.
MH: Vusi, you initially started as a fresh matriculant at the Sheraton Hotel in Pretoria. What drew you to the world of gastronomy, and how did you make the decision to pursue a career in cooking instead of engineering, as your mom had hoped?
Vusi: The idea of sitting in a lecture room for all those years wasn’t that appealing to me at the time. Cooking was not on my radar, but it was something I enjoyed. I had always seen Jamie Oliver and Gordon Ramsay shows, and they looked like a vibe I could enjoy so I just went for it.
You’ve worked with some renowned chefs like Peter Tempelhof and David Higgs. Can you tell us how these experiences influenced your approach to cooking and your culinary style?
They were both vastly different. I learnt a lot of the fundamentals from Chef Peter Tempelhoff. It was the first place I saw first-hand what high standards are, and how to maintain them. This has helped a lot with how I run my teams today. From Chef David Higgs I learnt how to “push”. We were a small team but an efficient one, and the food was playful and clever which is what I have kind of continued.
READ MORE: Getting To Know David Higgs a Little Better
Your cuisine is known for pushing the boundaries with unique ingredient combinations. What drives you to experiment with such unconventional pairings like oysters and beef fat or calamari and grapes?
I wouldn’t say unconventional – I believe it all makes sense. I’m driven by curiosity, and I always ask myself “Why”. I didn’t really go to culinary school so I think that helps because no one ever told me that you should serve oysters with beef fat.
You’ve mentioned creating your own ingredients like bacon and sour cream. Can you share some of the challenges and rewards of this hands-on approach to cooking?
I spent a bit of time at a restaurant in Belgium called In de Wulf, where fermentations and charcuterie were in my wheelhouse, so seeing all that was a shock to the system in the best way possible. The challenge was in the time spent on a project that ended up either not being delicious – or just simply rotten. The rewards are great because we can manipulate familiar products and people’s reactions are just awesome when they taste these things.
How did your time with Chef David Higgs at The Saxon impact your culinary journey, especially in terms of allowing you to create your own dishes?
It was indeed a confidence booster but equally scary. There were definitely good days and horrible days, and it taught me how to keep the guest in mind when I come up with dishes and not my ego. We were encouraged to enter competitions which opened our eyes to what was and is happening in the industry.
You’ve referred to Chef David Higgs as your “God-chef” and mentor. Could you share an example of a dish that you created together, and how it evolved under his guidance?
I usually have a good memory, but I can’t think of a specific dish for the life of me.
READ MORE: How To Make Grilled Pork Tenderloin with Ancho-Orange Sauce and Kale Salad
Your time at In de Wulf in Belgium exposed you to a different culinary culture. What key lessons did you bring back from that experience and incorporate into your cooking?
This is definitely a moment that shaped me and the way that I look at food and restaurants. Before Belgium, I had hardly cooked with fire besides the occasional braai. The way fire and fat were being utilised in Belgium was next level. Fire and fat have really become the foundation of anything that we do – and it’s just more fun.
You’ve been involved in several successful pop-ups and collaborations. Can you tell us about one that stands out as particularly memorable or influential in your career?
Cooking at Prada was wild, and I enjoyed it a lot. I think most of the time when I was cooking, I kept asking myself “What am I doing here”? The highlight was for sure EDGE X Mount Nelson – that really changed a lot of things for us.
You mentioned translating your passion for art, fashion design, and music into your kitchen. How do these influences manifest in your culinary creations?
I like the thought process of how things are done in the arts, the challenge, and the notions of history, time, and luxury. Like when did streetwear become the new high-fashion trend? A lot of chefs do this without realising it. It’s all about telling a story and how you package it.
Your upcoming concept at Time Out Market Cape Town, MLILO ‘Fires of Africa,’ sounds fascinating. Can you give us a sneak peek into what diners can expect and the inspiration behind this concept?
This is another exciting one. We have been well immersed in the ways of the African continent when it comes to food and hospitality. The content is ripe with inspiration and a common thread we saw was the fire, so peeps can expect a lot of bold flavours, a bit of spice here and there, and just good old African hospitality.
READ MORE: 19 Amazing South African & African Eco-Destinations To Visit In 2023
Your concept celebrates African shisanyama heritage. How do you plan to honour the diverse culinary traditions of the continent while adding your own creative touch?
The idea is not to change or mess up something that has worked for centuries. The techniques will be where we bring in the creativity, but at heart, it’ll be a celebration of that dish. The sourcing of ingredients will be key to the success of this concept. There is nowhere to hide.
Among all the dishes you’ve created in your career, do you have a personal favourite or one that you’re particularly proud of? If so, could you describe it and the story behind it?
isicupho; a duck dish I made for a competition. It was an aged duck dish, with a grain porridge, and a buchu pumpkin kombucha. It was a story of growing up on a farm, what we would eat before going out to hunt for birds – which we would later enjoy after being grilled.
READ MORE: 5 Power Proteins You Should Slap on the Braai Tonight
You mentioned your mantra of developing your team with respect for the craft. How do you instil this ethos in your kitchen, and what benefits do you see from it?
The saying I throw around is “we just cooking food”. The thought behind that is one shouldn’t take themselves seriously when cooking. Respect for teammates, ingredients, and self is the narrative we push. I’m very open with my team and I share all aspects of the business so they have a better understanding of what we’re trying to achieve. This creates a more cohesive team, and they are able to enjoy the work because they understand what they are working towards.
What are your long-term culinary aspirations? Is there a particular culinary milestone or project you’re working towards?
The idea is to focus on what we have going on at the moment. I tell my life partner that I’ll be very happy if I can cook seafood in Mozambique in a small little shack. No one seems to believe me!
Lastly, for young and aspiring chefs, what advice would you give them as they embark on their culinary journeys?
Listen to your mum and go be an engineer, hehe. On a serious note, it’s important to take your time and not chase money or celebrity. Do the work and be willing. The rest will fall into place.
